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LURES ARE designed to mimic the fish which predators
eat naturally and since fish like pike, perch, chub and zander will
take virtually anything at times, lures come in a bewildering array
of colours, shapes and sizes. They have great names too, like the Crazy
Crawler and the Creek Chub Pike. There is plenty of fun to be had building
a collection of lures to suit differing venues and conditions.
For most freshwater fishing you choose from a
variety of plugs and spinners. Plugs wobble with an upright motion
though the water, whereas spinners have a blade that rotates around
an axis creating a spinning action, as the name suggests.
Most plugs are made from a single piece of painted
wood, plastic or metal and can basically be divided into three categories
— surface plugs (also known as uppets), floating divers and sinking
divers.
Plugs up to three inches (7.6cm) in length are
ideal for catching perch and chub, but for pike fishing you can use
plugs up to 12 inches (30.5cm) long.
Surface Plugs
Surface plugs are the most fun to use, as you
can see the action of the lure as it pops, weaves, rattles and gurgles
its way along the surface. Takes from pike in particular can be unforgettable
as the predator surges from the deeper water to take the lure on the
surface with a spectacular splash. Many plugs look nothing like any
natural food that a predator would normally take, but the vibrations
transmitted across the surface of the water as the plug is retrieved
seem to trigger their natural aggression. The fish probably thinks
it is taking a frog, water rat or vole that is swimming on the surface.
Surface plugs are most successful when fished
close to lily beds, reed lines and over weed beds in no more than
ten feet (3m) of clear water. Famous surface plugs include the Heddon
Crazy Crawler, the Jitter Bug and the Heddon Zara Mouse.
Floating Divers
Known as crank baits in America, these are the
most versatile of all artificial lures as they can be fished along
the surface on a slow retrieve or made to dive beneath the surface
by retrieving the line much faster (called ‘cranking’).
They have a vane at the front and this determines the plug’s
action. Those with a large, low-angled vane will dive deeply when
cranked in, whereas those with smaller, sharply-angled vanes work
at a much shallower depth. Good floating divers to have in your collection
include the Shakespeare Big S, the Rapala Shad Rap, the Abu Hi-lo,
the Booker Tail Crankbait and the Rapala Fat Rap Deep Runner.
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Jerkbaits
These are large single and jointed lures designed
to catch big predators. Much of the action is imparted through the skill
of the angler who must use powerful tackle to cast these heavy lures
and get them working. They are available in floating, sinking or shallow
diving forms, but they are not lures for the beginner.
Sinking Divers
These sink when cast into the water and allow
you to explore different depths using the same lure, depending on
the point at which you start the retrieve and the speed at which you
retrieve. One of the classics is the Creek Chub Pike the lure which
captured the current British pike record of 461b 13oz (21.23kg). This
pattern comes in single and jointed versions and can be either wobbled
speedily just under the surface, or allowed to sink deeper and worked
slowly along the bottom.
Spinners
Spinners tempt fish through their combination
of visual attraction and the vibrations that are transmitted into
the water as a metal blade revolves around a fixed stem. The most
famous spinners are made by Mepps, and in the smaller sizes (00 to
1) these are fabulous perch and chub lures. Similar spinners are made
by Rublex, Landa and Abu.
Spinnerbaits
These crazy-looking lures were designed to catch
American bass, but they have also been found to be very successful
in attracting pike. Their size and colour makes them highly visible
and so a good choice if the water is slightly coloured up. They are
usually fitted with a large single hook rather than a treble, and
can easily be provided with a weed guard to make them usable on very
snaggy venues.
Spoons
In their simplest form these are just a shaped
piece of metal with a hook at one end and a swivel at the other, but
they catch plenty of fish. They wobble on the retrieve to represent
an injured fish, reflecting flashes of sunlight as they move, making
them superb for clear water venues on bright days. Top spoons include
the Kuusamo Professor.
The Harris Angling Company have a great selection
of lures from around the world, you can find them at http://www.cygnet.co.uk/ukfw/harris
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THERE ARE many factors to take into account
when you arrive at a venue for a lure-fishing session. You need to try
and think like the predator you are targeting, so as to work out where
the fish is likely to be on that particular day, at what depth it might
be and what sort of lure will trigger the fish into feeding. Weather,
water clarity time of year, light conditions and natural features all
play a big part in selecting the right lure. And even if you get that
choice right, you have then got to work the lure in such a way that
the fish will be tempted to take it.
Water Clarity
This is the most important factor of all
to consider before you even start fishing. With lute fishing you are
relying almost entirely on the predator's vision to get a take. It is
best to restrict your lure fishing for clearwater venues. If you know
there are big predators in a venue which is always coloured up, fish
using a deadbait.
What Colour Lure?
This depends entirely on the prevailing light conditions. On dull days,
fluorescent coloured lures, such as oranges, greens and yellows, are
the best choice. On bright days, shiny silver, copper and bronze patterns
will reflect the light beautifully and should he your choice. Patterns
painted on the flanks of the lure can play a significant part if you
are fishing in shallow, clear water, and my favourite lures are those
which are domed with a striped green and black pattern that imitates
a small perch. However, if you are fishing in deep water, pattern and
colour are far less important as the fish will be striking from below
the lure at what appears to them as just a black silhouette.
The Best Time for Lure Fishing
On most venues predators observe set feeding times. First and last light
are classic times, but there will also be times during the day when
the predators feed, perhaps for only an hour. Take note of when you
catch fish, and then plan subsequent sessions to coincide with these
times. The time of year is also important. Generally speaking, predators
will be more active in summer and that is when the best lure fishing
is to be be enjoyed. However, you can also catch fish in colder weather.
In winter the predatory fish are likely to have followed their prey
into the deeper parts of the water where it is slightly warmer, and
because the fish are not very active at this time of the year, you will
need too work your lure slow and deep.
Working the Lure
A predatory fish is constantly on the look-out for any easy meal. To
a pike, perch, chub or zander, life is all about maximum reward for
minimum effort, and the last thing they want too do is chase after fit,
agile young fish all day long. To such fish an easy meal comes in the
shape of an injured, dying or diseased fish which cannot easily escape
capture, and that is exactly what you are trying too imitate when you
retrieve your lure. Although most lures do have their own in-built action
lure fishing is certainly not just a case of casting our and reeling
mechanically back in. You need to vary the speed of your lure, stop
and start the retrieve, try very fast spurts followed by very slow pauses,
and generally experiment with your technique until you start getting
takes.
Countdown
Sinking plugs, spinners and spoons can be worked at all depths by using
the countdown method. You simply cast in, and imagine the lure sinking
at, say, one foot (30cm) per second: Your first few casts might be at
a countdown of three seconds, working the lure three feet (90cm) deep.
You can then work to a countdown of five (five feet 1.5m), seven (seven
feet 2.lm) and so on. When you finally get a take, you may well have
found the feeding depth for that day and you may then get one take after
another. If you are prepared to take the risk of letting the lure sink
to the bottom at each swim, you can map out any changes in depth and
build up a mental picture of what the venue is like under the water.
Natural Features
Predators like to hide in natural features, such as reeds, weed beds,
lilies and sunken trees, and to pounce on any unsuspecting prey fish
as it passes their lair. Therefore you should try too work the lure
as close as possible too any such features that you are able to cast
to.
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